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devish
Member
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# Posted: 9 Dec 06 21:14
Reply
Hello woophy members!
I've got a tecnical question here:
I wanted to know some teckniques in taking pictures of running water and waterfalls, exposition time etcetera because I'm not very practical with it.
here is an example by spark (by the way, great pic!) just to be clear
Thank you, devish
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Marcos
Moderator
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# Posted: 9 Dec 06 22:08 - Edited by: Marcos
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If you want to catch the movement of the water, use slower exposition times, this way you will also catch the light of the place, can be interesting or not, depends on the situation.
If you just want to catch the water (without the movement sensation) and probably not the place, use faster exposition times but remember it is very possible that the trees, flowers, etc. (taking the exmple of the picture above) will probably look dark.
For the first option, use expositions slower than 1" or someting easier, use the automatic exposition and take the light from the place, the trees, etc.
For the second option, the exposition time should not be slower than 1/200 or 1/100 maybe.
Greetings,
Marcos Rowinski.
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de stilte
Member
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# Posted: 9 Dec 06 22:38
Reply
for example this one was taken at a shuttertime of 1/5 of a second.
I've got another one where the water is freezed at 1/400 of a second.
But nowadays with the digital camera's, just experiment and you'll find out which suits you the best.
ruud
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John Melskens
Member
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# Posted: 10 Dec 06 00:05 - Edited by: John Melskens
Reply
Devish - you camera is still the kodak easy share z700?
That camera can not make exposures in manual mode, only automatic. The only thing you can influence are the ASA and the zoom. (And the flash - which we don't need here.)
For a movement like that you need a longer shutterspeed; as Ruud said of about 1/15 sec. (Your camera goes as low as 1/8 sec, so that is good.
Movement on a picture depends on shutterspeed, focal-lenght of the lens and movement of your subject.
With fast flowing water like in the two pictures in this topic I would use any shutterspeed between 1/8 and 1/60 - depending on the effect that I want. (For "frozen" water go as high as you can get: at least 1/250 sec.)
How can you influence your camera to get the moving effect of the water? Put the camera on 80 ASA or 100 ASA - not higher. With a focal-lenght of about 30 - 35 mm digital.
Now comes the tricky part. You can't control the shutterspeed, so what you do is play with the different automats for Fireworks, Indoorphotos, etc.
And choose a day that is not too bright, or the automats of your camera will just freeze all movement.
That is my advice. Good luck.
John
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Bunny
Member
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# Posted: 10 Dec 06 00:35
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... and if you use longer shutterspeed, don't forget to use a tripod!! ;-)
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Nivad
Member
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# Posted: 10 Dec 06 03:42
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To freeze waterfalls, fountains, water out of cranes, etc you need at least a shutterspeed of 1/250 of a second or even faster as already said here. But it wouldend hurt to experiment a bit.
If you want still some movemant blur you'll need a slower shutterspeed, but if you go slower then a 1/60 of a second you'll some kind of stabilization wether in your lens or in even in the form of tripod. Otherwise you risk the whole picture being blurred just because of the vibrations of our own hand...
Grtz
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devish
Member
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# Posted: 10 Dec 06 11:38
Reply
Thank you all for your advice, it will be very helpfull. And of course, i'll bring here the results (it they'r up to the site!).
Thank's again everyone!
Devish.
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ortho158
Member
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# Posted: 10 Dec 06 11:51
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Here is an example of the same fountain, taken at very different speeds (like it is suggested above, I experimented).
First, at 1/800, f 3.2, iso 125
And then at 1/40, f 9.0, iso 64
I wanted to go lower, but my camera did not allow higher f. (and there was too much light; I would have needed to add a darkening filter).
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devish
Member
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# Posted: 11 Dec 06 15:54
Reply
Thank's ortho158, you'r pic is very helpfull, I see what you say.
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Dave Moore
Member
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# Posted: 21 Dec 06 23:05
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The key is to get the exposure time higher, some cameras have a setting for this, it's typical a symbol of a ball with lines behind. To do it manually:
. Get a tripod.
. Use the lowest ISO rating.
. Use the highest F-stop.
. If you can lower the exposure compensation to its lowest do so.
. Wait until later in the day when there is less natural light.
. Play around with the exposure time until you get a decent exposure, one quarter of a second should give a waterfall that milky quality.
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